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Nom*D New kimono ensemble, 1999

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New Zealand Fashion Museum

The 'New Zealand Four' was the collective name given to labels NOM*d, Zambesi, Karen Walker and World in 1999. Selected to participate at two London Fashion Weeks, they received favourable critical response from the international fashion press, an important confirmation to New Zealanders that our designers are world class. Selection for the 1999 London Fashion Week prompted NOM*d designer Margarita Robertson to extend her knitwear label to include woven garments. Robertson rejected high fashion’s use of luxury fabrics and was inspired by uniforms and functional clothing, including women’s bowling uniforms, as evident in the white parka nylon skirts. The re-configuration of clothing is another NOM*d theme, exemplified by the woollen socks with a latex sole – becoming shoes. Trips to Japan and Japanese designers Rei Kawakubo (Comme des Garçons) and Yohji Yamamoto have influenced Robertson’s utilitarian, androgynous approach to fashion. NOM*d was established in 1986. Designer Margarita Robertson lives and works in Dunedin. The label’s trademark dark wit reflects the city’s relaxed non-conformity and gothic undertones. "Black ... it’s perfect for any occasion!", she says. Read more about wearing the colour black in the New Zealand Fashion Museum publication Black: The history of black in fashion, society and culture in New Zealand.

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